Historia ya kuchakata mitindo: jinsi wanamitindo wa karne ya 19 walivyobadilika, kuboreshwa na kupitishwa.

Kipande hiki kimebadilishwa kutoka Dressing Up: Women Influence French Fashion (MIT Press), iliyochapishwa awali na MIT News Reader na kuchapishwa tena hapa kwa ruhusa.
Viongozi wa mitindo wanaendelea kuongeza juhudi zao baada ya COP26 kuitaka dunia kwa dhati kuchukua hatua dhidi ya mabadiliko ya hali ya hewa.Chloé akawa chapa ya kwanza ya kifahari kufikia hadhi ya "B Corporation" inayotamaniwa na sasa ina muhuri huo wa idhini, kuashiria dhamira yake ya kupunguza. athari zake kwa watu na sayari kupitia matumizi ya nishati mbadala na nyenzo zinazopatikana kimaadili, kati ya mamia ya uharibifu wa mipango mingine. Kituo cha Worn Wear huko Patagonia kinaongoza katika kitengo cha biashara lakini bado kinachoweza kutumika. ” makampuni ya uwekevu ThredUp (iliyoanzishwa mwaka wa 2009), Poshmark (iliyoanzishwa mwaka wa 2011) na The RealReal (iliyoanzishwa mwaka wa 2011). Shughuli zilizoorodheshwa, zote tatu zina ukuaji wa juu, lakini bado hazina faida kubwa.
Wakati huo huo, vyombo vya habari vya mitindo, na WWD haswa, vinafuatilia madai ya ulaghai kutoka kwa chapa za kifahari kama Kocha wa vitendo vinavyodhaniwa kuwa fahamu ambavyo vimegunduliwa kuharibu idadi kubwa ya mikoba isiyo kamilifu badala ya kukarabati au kuifanya upya. Washawishi wa mitandao ya kijamii hadharani. waaibishe, huku watangazaji wa podikasti hupima ushindi wa chapa na kukosa. Mwanahabari wa mitindo Amy Odell, mwandishi wa jarida huru la "Safu ya Nyuma", anaangazia madai ya uwongo ya kampuni. kwa umakini, ingawa hivi karibuni watakabiliwa na udhibiti mkali zaidi nchini Marekani” Alibainisha kuwa "mwaka huu FTC itarekebisha Miongozo yake ya 'kijani'," ambayo inalenga kusaidia wauzaji kuepuka kutoa madai ya mazingira ambayo yanapotosha watumiaji."
Huku "ununuzi unaozingatia thamani" na "uendelevu wa uteuzi wa bidhaa" ukiongezeka, sasa ni wakati mwafaka wa kuona jinsi mazoea haya yanahusiana na mazoea ya zamani. Je, juhudi za sasa za wabunifu na wanunuzi hushikamana dhidi ya mababu zao wa mitindo (kama vile Maison) Félix na House of Worth) na wateja wao mahiri wa kimataifa? Tunaweza kujifunza nini kutokana na ahadi ya karne ya 19 ya utumiaji tena na uboreshaji, ubora juu ya wingi?
Mwishoni mwa karne ya 19, mtindo wa Kifaransa ulikuwa ununuzi wa kifahari zaidi kwa wanawake matajiri wa Marekani. Wanawake wanaotumia maelfu ya dola kununua nguo za Kifaransa huongeza uwekezaji wao kwa kuzinunua tena - kuvaa mara nyingi kwa kipindi cha misimu au miaka, tofauti na wanafanya kwa vito vyao vya thamani zaidi Hakuna tofauti.Wanavaa vazi hilo katika umbo lake la asili, kuliinua tena, au kuajiri mtengenezaji asili au fundi cherehani wa ndani ili kulirekebisha.Mazoea haya yanaonyesha msisitizo wa nguo za kifahari na zimekita mizizi. katika utamaduni wa kifalme wa Ulaya.Kama mwanahistoria na mtunzaji Kate Strastin anavyoeleza katika Ndani ya WARDROBE ya Kifalme: Historia ya Mavazi ya Malkia Alexandra, Alexandra, Princess wa Wales, alikuwa na fundi wake cherehani Lady Liz na kampuni walibadilisha vazi lake la harusi lililotengenezwa na Uingereza kuwa vazi la jioni. Mnamo Machi 1863, siku chache baada ya ndoa yake na Edward VII.ore katika Waverley Ball huko London mnamo 1871. Nguo hiyo ina lebo ya Elise na imehifadhiwa leo katika Mkusanyiko wa Mavazi ya Kifalme katika Kensington Palace.
Mary Endicott Chamberlain alivalia vazi lile lile la hariri ya buluu iliyokolea ya House of Worth pamoja na kamba, shanga na velvet kwa matukio mawili tofauti ya mahakama huko London mnamo Machi na Julai 1893. Tukio la kwanza lilikuwa mapokezi katika chumba cha kuchora cha Malkia Victoria katika Jumba la Buckingham. na ya pili ilikuwa harusi ya Duke na Duchess wa York (baadaye Mfalme George V na Malkia Mary). Pia amezoea kurudisha gauni zake za Worth kwenye jumba la mitindo kwa ajili ya kufanya marekebisho, kama alivyofanya alipotaka lace ya Van Dyke. kola kwenye mavazi nyekundu ya satin.
Mwanzoni mwa miaka ya 2000, wanawake wa tabaka la juu nchini Amerika walipitisha kielelezo cha kifalme cha kubadilisha nguo. Elizabeth Patterson wa Baltimore alipoolewa na Jerome Bonaparte mwaka wa 1803, alivaa vazi la muslin nyeupe lililopambwa, ambalo amevaa mara kadhaa tangu wakati huo. Mavazi ya Kifaransa ya Nancy Fowler McCormick , sasa katika mkusanyo wa Jumuiya ya Kihistoria ya Chicago, inaonyesha dalili za kuvaliwa tena.Alihudhuria hafla nyingi za kijamii na mumewe, milionea Cyrus Hall McCormick, na alivaa gauni la Thamani kwenye harusi ya mwanawe mnamo 1904.
Nguo nyingi za wasomi huwa urithi, zimeandikwa katika wosia, na kisha ni juu ya warithi kuchagua jinsi watakavyovaa, kwa mabadiliko au bila mabadiliko. Katika kumbukumbu yake, Alva Vanderbilt Belmont anakumbuka jinsi yeye na ndugu zake walivyothamini shawl ya nywele za ngamia. , na tulipu za kamba zilizoachwa katika wosia wake kwa ajili ya makali ya mavazi ya harusi ya mama yao. Alva na binti yake Consulo baadaye walitumia kamba kwenye nguo zao za harusi. Vilevile, mwaka wa 1883, mwanahisani Caroline Louisa Williams Mfaransa wa Boston, Massachusetts, alinunua rangi ya bluu iliyokolea. suti ya velvet yenye trim ya manyoya ya chinchilla na lebo ya Maison Lipman kwa faranga 1,600. Chapa hiyo, inayoendeshwa na Madame Camille Lipman, ilitumika jijini Paris katika miaka ya 1880, na wateja wake walijumuisha Maria Pia, Malkia wa Ureno. Miaka 37 baadaye, Alice Williams Pearse , mzao wa Kifaransa, akiwa katika picha ya gauni na mfuko wa chinchilla, bila koti, katika hafla ya kuadhimisha Marekebisho ya Kumi na Tisa, ambayo Marekebisho hayo yaliwapa wanawake haki ya kupiga kura. Mavazi na picha hizo sasa zimewekwa katika H.istoric New England.Orme Wilson Mdogo na Richard Thornton Wilson III wachangia mkusanyiko wa gauni kwa Jumba la Makumbusho la Metropolitan of Art by Houses of Worth, Doucet, na Paquin, na kutoa muono wa jinsi couture imekua kupitia tawi la familia moja Feel. .Ndugu wa Wilson ni wana wa William Buckhouse Astor Jr. na bintiye Caroline Astor Carrie.
Kwa matukio kama vile Mpira wa Centennial uliofanyika nchini kote mwaka wa 1876, wanawake waliagiza gauni zinazoiga zile zinazovaliwa na mababu zao katika picha na picha. Wanawake wengine walitumia vipande vya kamba zao za kibinafsi katika matukio mbalimbali, kama walivyofanya Astors, ambao walikusanya kamba za Flemish na Kifaransa za karne ya 18, ambazo baadhi zimehifadhiwa. Katika harusi ya binti yake Helen na James R. Roosevelt 1878, Caroline Astor alijivunia gauni nyeusi ya velvet na trim ya lace ya miaka 200.
Njia nyingine ya kutumika tena ni takataka kutoka kwa wamiliki kwenda kwa wajakazi wao au wapokeaji wa misaada.Caroline Astor alitoa nguo kwa hospitali ya wanawake, huku Cornelia Stewart, ambaye ameolewa na mfanyabiashara AT Stewart, inasemekana alitoa baadhi ya nguo zake kwa mwanamke katika hospitali ya wanawake. hitaji Mwimbaji katika mavazi ya jukwaa.Kama Diana de Marley (mwandishi wa "History of Haute Couture") na Kate Strastin wameonyesha, mazoezi hayo yalitokana na mazoezi ya kifalme ya Ulaya kuwakabidhi vijakazi, Malkia Victoria na Alex Ndivyo alivyofanya Princess. Sandra.Wales.Mtiririko mwingine ni kuuza nguo kwa wafanyabiashara wa mitumba, wazao wa biashara ya muda mrefu ya Ulaya ya nguo zilizotumika.Huko Paris, biashara hii imekuwepo tangu karne ya 13, na kufikia karne ya 18 ilikuwa imejilimbikizia karibu na Les Halles. .Katika karne ya 19, washiriki wa familia ya kifalme wangeuza kwa madalali wa nguo.
Tangu mwanzoni mwa karne ya 18, Uingereza pia ina historia ya kuuza nguo za kifalme na za kiungwana kwenye kubadilishana nguo kuukuu huko London Mashariki, kama Jennifer Le Zotte anavyofafanua katika kitabu chake From Goodwill to Grunge. biashara ya mikono katika Upande wa Mashariki ya Chini ilichochewa na kuwasili kwa idadi kubwa ya wahamiaji wa hivi majuzi wa Uropa kati ya 1880 na 1920, inayoendeshwa hasa na Wayahudi wenye uzoefu wa kuuza na kushona nguo. Wengine walitangazwa katika magazeti ya ndani wakitaka kununua nguo zilizotupwa.Matangazo yanaweza kuhitajika. huku wachuuzi wakionekana kupigwa marufuku mara kwa mara kununua nguo katika mauzo ya uvamizi wa hisani. Upinzani dhidi ya Wayahudi uliingia mahali hapa kwa sababu Wayahudi walionekana kihistoria kuwa wanatawala biashara hiyo, ambayo iliundwa kwa lazima walipopigwa marufuku kutoka kwa taaluma zao na kugeukia mkokoteni wa watalii. mauzo.
Waigizaji hupata ubunifu wa jinsi ya kupata na kushughulikia mavazi ya bei ghali. Mwimbaji wa opera Emma Abbott alipofariki mwaka wa 1891, mwigizaji Jeanne Kimball alinunua gauni la Worth na Félix ambalo Abbott alikuwa amevaa huko Carmen miaka michache mapema. Kimball aliwanunulia binti yake Corinne nyota kwenye jukwaa. Elena wa Montenegro aliposhindwa kutumia gauni kadhaa mpya za Félix kwa muda katika maombolezo ya mfalme wa Italia Umberto I aliyeuawa na wanaharakati, couturier kwanza aliziweka kwenye Maonyesho ya Universal huko Paris Kwenye maonyesho 1900. onyesho hilo, Francesca Redding alivutiwa na vazi la hariri ya kijani kibichi na chiffon, akalinunua, na kuliweka jukwaani haraka. Nguo za mtaalam wa masuala ya kijamii Mary Rita Wilson-Gollette, ambazo zilifuatiliwa kwa makini katika kumbukumbu za ankara zilizopo, ziliripotiwa kuuzwa New York. mteja wa ukumbi wa michezo Eves baada ya kifo chake na alikuwa amevaliwa na waigizaji wengi, kulingana na ripoti..Mwishowe, mwigizaji Sadie Martinot aliuza gauni zake za jukwaani za Worth na Félix kwenye mnada Mei 1894 kwa $35,000 (zaidi ya $1.1 milioni leo) .Waigizaji pia waliuza nguo zao za jukwaani kwa wafanyabiashara wa mitumba ambao sehemu zao za mbele za duka zilikuwa, kama gazeti la The Sun lilivyowaeleza. mnamo 1892, "na sketi, sketi, na nguo za Basque zilining'inia orofa tatu au nne ndani".
Wanunuzi katika maduka ya mitumba ni wanawake wa tabaka la kati ambao nguo zao zitadumu kwa miaka mingi.Hannah Ditzler Alspaugh wa Illinois anaandika katika jarida lake na vitabu vyake vya chakavu vya kitambaa nguo na suti ambazo angetengeneza upya au "kupasuka" kwa miaka mingi, ikiwa ni pamoja na aliyovaa. katika Maonyesho ya Ulimwengu ya Columbia huko Chicago Suits, haswa, ilifanya hafla hiyo wakati wa mzozo wa kifedha wa kitaifa wa 1893. Kwa kupanga na kudumisha kwa uangalifu, nguo zinaweza kuhifadhiwa na kuvaliwa mara kwa mara. chupi zilizowekwa safu hufanya kama kizuizi kati ya mafuta ya mwili na uchafu na wingi wa vazi.
Mazoezi ya kupata kile unachotaka na kisha kukinunua tena, kukizungusha na kubadilishana kimesababisha mitindo ya Kifaransa kusambazwa sana katika makusanyo duniani kote.Kama Strastin anavyoonyesha, gauni la Malkia Alexandra lilipigwa mnada na Chama cha Sanaa cha Marekani na Anderson Art Gallery mwaka wa 1937. , na robo yake ilinunuliwa na Erin Lewison na kuuzwa katika Makumbusho ya Metropolitan ya Sanaa Shule ya Mavazi ilianzishwa.
Ingawa nyenzo hizi zina mwamko mdogo wa kijamii katika utungaji mimba wa leo—manyoya, manyoya ya ndege adimu, na hata vazi la kichwani lililo na wachunguzi wa taxidermy zinatamanika—tunaweza kuthamini kitu kilichopo katika kipindi hicho, desturi zinazokubalika za utumiaji tena, na kile tunachoita sasa upcycling. anasa ya mitindo ya Ufaransa waliyonunua, wanawake wa Marekani walileta pragmatism fulani sokoni.ThredUp, Poshmark na The RealReal huweka kipaumbele kusudi, kwa makusudi kupanua maisha ya mavazi kama chaguo la kimaadili la mtumiaji na mbali na unyanyapaa wowote unaotaka iwezekanavyo. mwishoni mwa karne ya kumi na tisa, katika duru za juu zaidi za kijamii, hakukuwa na chochote cha kuondoa unyanyapaa.
Ili kuazima muda wa kampuni ya elimu ya mitindo ya Motif, wanawake wa Marekani ambao walinunua mitindo ya Kifaransa mwishoni mwa karne ya 19 walianzisha "mfano wa mviringo ambapo vazi liliundwa na kuendelezwa kwa kuzingatia matumizi yanayofuata". Nunua ubora wa juu.Tumia tena, au uchangie. .
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,值:o[i++] };}, e: 函数 e(_e) { 抛出 _e;}, f: F };} tupa TypeError mpya(“对不可迭代实例的迣代尝了试无效。\n kusasa ,非数组对象必须具有 [Symbol.iterator]() 方法。”);} var normalCompletion = kweli, didErr = uongo, err;return { s: function s() {it = o[Symbol.iterator](); }, n: 函数 n() { var step = it.next();normalCompletion = step.done;返回步骤;}, e: 函数 e(_e2) { didErr = kweli;错误 = _e2;}, f: chaguo la kukokotoa f() { jaribu { if (!normalCompletion && it.return != null) it.return();} 最后 { if (didErr) throw err;} } };} chaguo _unsupportedIterableToArray(o, minLen) { if (! o) rudisha;ikiwa (aina ya o === “kamba”) rudisha _arrayLikeToArray(o, minLen);var n = Object.prototype.toString.call(o).kipande(8, -1);kama (n == = “对象” && o.mjenzi) n = o.constructor.name;kama (n === “Ramani” ||n === “Weka”) rudisha Array.kutoka(o); ikiwa (n === “参数” || /^(?:Ui|I)nt(?:8|16|32)(?:Imebanwa )?Array$/.test(n)) return _arrayLikeToArray(o, minLen);} 函数 _arrayLikeToArray(arr, len) { if (len == null || len > arr.length) len = arr.length;kwa ( var i = 0, arr2 = safu mpya(len); i


Muda wa kutuma: Jan-19-2022